Mocanaqua Climbing areas

Rock Climbing in Mocanaqua, Pennsylvania: An overview of the climbing.

Mocanaqua, Pennsylvania may not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of a true destination but for PA climbers it’s home to some of the best climbing areas in the state. With its stunning rock quality and challenging routes, Mocanaqua offers a unique experience for climbers of all skill levels.

One of the most popular climbing areas in Mocanaqua is the Squirrel Rock. This unique geological formation features a series of tiny crags and boulders on unique sandstone. The walls surrounding the bouldering area range in height from 30 to 50 feet, providing a nice playground for beginner climbers and some short cragging opportunities for more experienced climbers.

Another great climbing spot in Mocanaqua is The Library. This giant rectangular block offers a variety of sport routes and a handful of trad, from 5.5 to 5.14, and is a great place to pump out in the summer months because the area is completely shaded. The surrounding area is also perfect for hiking and camping (the latter is not right at the crags however), making it a great destination for a weekend getaway. Legal camping options are not too far away. There are several state parks within a 45 minute drive.

For more experienced climbers, the Shickshinny cliffs (Paradise and the Library) offer a unique challenge. These towering cliffs rise to 100+ feet and feature a variety of climbing routes, including steep overhangs and cracks. The views from the top are simply breathtaking, making it a rewarding climb for those who are up for the challenge. Note: there are current access concerns at both Paradise and The Library.

If you’re new to rock climbing, it’s important to remember that some of the crags in Mocanaqua such as The Library and Paradise do not have top access and you need to lead routes to the anchors. The back wall at The Library is an exception to this. There are abundant anchors at all crags. Main Wall Mocanaqua and Squirrel Rock have very easy top access for setting up topropes. If you are not comfortable leading those two crags are your best option for toproping.

Overall, Mocanaqua, Pennsylvania offers an exciting and unique rock climbing experience for climbers of all skill levels. Its stunning natural scenery and challenging rock formations make it a must-visit destination for any climbing enthusiast.

Routes 

There are several dozen routes scattered across the low rock band at Squirrel.  The rock runs parallel to the road adjacent to the rock.  A few short sport routes are found at the first area at teh north end, short topropes are found near the main bouldering areas like Training Grounds, Titanic Boulder, Minty, and The Colosseum. At the south end two higher crags are found with steep, difficult routes.

Boulders

Bouldering is found all along the cliffband and in the woods all around the crag area. Some hidden gems lie nestled in the woods east of the main areas but are hard to find in summer with leaves on the trees. Diamond Cutter and the Gemstone are a few examples. A ton of problems are alsoo located on the crag itself below the roped routes.

Access

Access is not a problem at this area.  This is currently one of the areas open to climbing and in good access standing. One thing to be mindful of though is parking at the cemetry. Be curteous and keep noise to a minimum when parking and park well off the main road to Glenn Lyon.