Winter Cragging In PA

Winter Climbing in Pennsylvania: A Few Tips for Cold Weather Cragging in The Keystone State

The winter months in Pennsylvania offer climbing for motivated folks, with crisp air, crags that are often totally empty, you’d be happy to head out on those warmer winter days.  Sadly, few climbers opt for outdoor climbing in winter and stick to the warm, friendly gym. Most climbers pack away their gear when temperatures drop, winter can provide some of the best friction for climbing – if you know how to prepare and where to go.

Here Are A Few Cold Weather Climbing Tips If You Do Go Out

Winter climbing requires some preparation to be comfortable. The key is managing both your body temperature and your gear effectively.

Layer your clothing properly. Start with a moisture-wicking base layer, add an insulating mid-layer, and top it with a wind-resistant shell. You’ll want to be slightly cool when starting your approach – if you’re warm before climbing, you’ll likely overheat once you start moving.

Keep your hands functional by using fingerless belay gloves when possible. Bring multiple pairs of climbing shoes – a slightly larger size allows room for thicker socks without compromising your footwork. Store your shoes inside your jacket between climbs to keep the rubber warm and sticky.

Warm up thoroughly before attempting hard moves. Your muscles and tendons need extra time to get ready in cold conditions. Start with easier routes and gradually work up to your project grade.

Consider your timing carefully. Mid-day climbing is often best in winter, when the sun has had time to warm the rock. South-facing crags can be significantly warmer than other aspects.

Pennsylvania’s Winter Climbing Options

Paradise Rock

Located near Wilkes-Barre, Paradise Rock offers some of the best winter climbing in NEPA. The south-facing wall catches abundant sunshine, making it a popular cold-weather destination. The conglomerate rock provides excellent friction in cold conditions, and the short approach keeps you from getting too chilled before climbing. Main Wall in Mocanaqua is another nearby option but is shaded and not as warm. The short wall and two-minute approach make it a solid choice though!

Chickies Rock

Overlooking the Susquehanna River, Chickies Rock is Lancaster County’s go-to trad climbing area. While exposed to winter winds, its south-facing orientation can make it surprisingly comfortable on sunny days. The quartzite cliff offers multi-pitch routes and spectacular views of the river valley.

The area demands a warmer day, unless you’re training for alpine routes. Classic routes include “The Nose” and “Chalk Circle”. Be aware that some sections can remain damp in winter, so check conditions before making the trip.

Safe Harbor

Safe Harbor’s schist cliffs provide some of the most technical climbing in the region. The area features both sport and trad routes, with many lines falling in the 5.10-5.12 range. The cliff’s orientation provides some shelter from prevailing winds, making it more amenable to winter climbing than you might expect. When the sun hits the wall at this crag, climbing is blissful.

Birdsboro Quarry

This small but quality crag near Reading offers excellent winter climbing opportunities. The compact granite provides positive holds that remain grippy in cold conditions. The moderate approaches and south-facing orientation make it an ideal winter destination for quick sessions.

Squirrel Rock

While smaller than other areas mentioned, Squirrel Rock’s concentrated quality makes it worth visiting. The area features mostly sport and toprope routes in the 5.8-5.11 range, with many standing out as a local classic.

The crag itself is located in a shaded area but sun filters well through the bare-boned winter forest. All the routes are extremely short so setting up topropes is quick, letting you do laps on several climbs. And no one else will be out there but you so you can pick what you want!

Final Thoughts

Winter climbing in Pennsylvania requires a little preparation, but the rewards are worth it. Empty crags, crisp conditions, and the beauty of the PA winter (yes there is some beauty with the cold) create memorable sends. Now get out and send!

Nearby Option:  The Powerlinez: New York’s Hidden Gem

Just across the Pennsylvania border in Ramapo, New York, the Powerlinez climbing area has become increasingly popular among Northeast climbers seeking quality winter climbing. This former power line service road turned climbing destination offers unique advantages for cold-weather climbing that make it worth the trip for Pennsylvania climbers looking to expand their winter options.

Location and Access

The Powerlinez is located within the Ramapo Mountains in Rockland County, NY, approximately 40 minutes from New York City. The area gets its name from the power lines that run through the property, which is now managed by the Torne Valley Climbers’ Coalition (TVCC). A parking permit is required and can be obtained through the TVCC website – this is strictly enforced, so don’t skip this step.

Why Powerlinez Is Good for Winter Climbing

Several factors make the Powerlinez an excellent winter climbing destination:

Favorable Orientation

Many of the main walls face south and southeast, catching crucial winter sunlight. This orientation creates comfortable microclimates even on cold days, with temperatures often feeling 5-10 degrees warmer than reported.

Quick Approach

Most climbing areas are accessed via a well-maintained service road with minimal elevation gain. This means less sweating during the approach – a crucial factor for staying warm and comfortable during winter climbing sessions.

Rock Quality

The area’s gneiss rock maintains excellent friction in cold conditions. Unlike some types of rock that become glassy or slick in winter, the Powerlinez’s textured stone often provides better grip in cooler temperatures, especially on sunny days.

It’s Not The Gunks

It does not get the crowds but it also does not have the epic climbing the Gunk’s has. In short this area offers quick toprope access and short routes; both great for winter.

Notable Winter Climbing Areas

The Cairn Wall

This south-facing wall receives sun most of the day, making it the premier winter climbing destination at the Powerlinez. The wall features a concentration of moderate routes in the 5.8-5.10 range, with excellent friction climbing on positive holds.

Notable routes include:

– “Stone Cold” (5.9+): A winter favorite with good holds and straightforward movement

– “Solar Collector” (5.10a): Appropriately named for its sun-catching position

– “Winter Warmup” (5.8): An excellent first route of the day

The Main Wall

While slightly sunnier, the Main Wall offers some of the area’s highest quality routes. It’s best climbed during mid-day in winter when the sun peaks around.

Standout routes include:

– “High Voltage” (5.10b): A classic line following a prominent crack system

– “Power Surge” (5.11a): Sustained climbing on excellent holds

– “Static Cling” (5.9): Perfect for warming up the fingers

The Bullwheel Area

This compact but quality section offers some shelter from prevailing winds, making it a good option on blustery days. The routes tend to be shorter but intense, perfect for maintaining body heat during winter sessions.

Winter-Specific Tips for Powerlinez

Timing Your Visit

The area’s proximity to urban areas means weekend crowds can be substantial. For winter climbing, consider:

– Arriving early to catch the first sun on the Cairn Wall

– Mid-week visits for solitude and prime conditions

– Planning around sunny days for optimal temperatures

Seasonal Considerations

– Snow typically clears quickly from the base of most walls due to sun exposure

– Wind can be significant at higher walls – check weather forecasts carefully

Ideas for Cold Days

1. Start at the Cairn Wall for sunny, sheltered climbing
2. Move to the Main Wall as temperatures peak
3. Finish the day at the Bullwheel Area if conditions permit

Local Amenities

The nearby town of Suffern offers several climber-friendly amenities:

– Multiple coffee shops for pre-climb warmup

– Climbing gear shop for last-minute needs

– Several restaurants perfect for post-climb refueling

Conservation and Ethics

The Powerlinez represents a success story in climbing access, maintained through partnership between local climbers and utility companies. Winter climbers should be particularly mindful of:

– Staying on established trails to prevent erosion

– Respecting parking regulations

– Packing out all trash and chalk

– Following TVCC guidelines for seasonal closures Visit https://tornevalleyclimbers.com/

Integration with Pennsylvania Climbing

For Pennsylvania climbers, the Powerlinez offers an excellent complement to local climbing options. Its relatively close proximity to eastern PA makes it feasible for day trips or weekend trips. The area’s routes often climb differently than Pennsylvania’s quartzite and schist, providing valuable variety for winter training.